CAIT AROUND THE WORLD

May 28, 2023 — My day started with free breakfast at my hostel, which was delicious. I had an egg, toast, coffee, and Greek yogurt with honey and nuts.

I felt like being the middle of the action for the rest of the day, so I decided that I would head to Fira and then, later, to Oia for sunset (stay tuned). The walk to Fira was quite nice and actually felt shorter than it had the day before. I wandered the streets a little bit and then headed down to the old port, which is down about a million stairs. I planned on grabbing the cable car to head back up. I enjoyed a beer down at the old port and watched the boats and the people and the water.

When I went to leave, it was so busy for the cable car. I really didn’t feel like waiting in the line, but I also wasn’t too keen on climbing hundreds of stairs with my ankle still trying to heal. Still, I wasn’t going to wait in the line. I ended up going up the stairs. I made it a little ways, then came to the men who were selling donkey rides up and down the steps. I ended up getting a donkey ride for the last of my cash (the gentleman originally quoted me 10€ but I didn’t have that much cash so I was just going to continue on, but he settled for the 7€ I did have). It was a relief to not have to walk up and it’s a really neat way to get views of the caldera, but I felt really bad for the donkey I was on in the heat of the day and the whole ordeal makes it very crowded for the tourists who are doing the steps themselves. I wouldn’t do it again if I went back.

When we reached the stopping point close to the top, I walked up the rest of the way and turned towards Oia. You can walk to the town along a path, but when I checked, it would have taken about two hours. I decided that was a really bad idea with my ankle and took the bus instead.

The ride itself was beautiful and the bussing system was fairly easy to navigate. You just have to ask around and check to make sure you’re getting on the right bus. Also, make sure that you have cash. I had to go to an ATM and get some out. The bus is really cheap though — only a couple euro.

When we arrived in Oia, my plan was to find a spot for dinner and watch sunset. I also wanted to get a picture of the iconic blue domes.

I cannot express to you how insanely busy Oia was. It was an absolute madhouse. I was jostled seven ways from Sunday and the queues for a picture of the domes was insane. It was also actually impossible to get all the domes in one picture. It looked like it was going to be a beautiful sunset, but Oia didn’t have nearly as many restaurants as Fira and I, unfortunately, didn’t have a dinner packed and I also didn’t feel like getting something random — I’m here for the Greek food! It felt like it was going to be an exercise in frustration trying to find a spot for sunset and I knew that I could find a beautiful spot in Fira. So, I decided to just get back on the bus and head back to Fira for dinner and to watch the sunset.

When I arrived back in Fira, I headed to Fanari, a restaurant that I’d passed several times and which seemed to have stunning views of the sunset. I knew where I wanted to sit so I asked if they had any spots left and they did, but when I headed down a level to where they’d told me, I found that none of those spots were supposed to be available. When I was going to leave, though, because I wasn’t willing to settle, they set me up with one.

So that was awesome.

I also finally had Kleftiki lamb. If you’ve never had this and don’t know what it is: you simply must try it if you’re ever in an authentic Greek restaurant or at a restaurant in Greece that has it on their menu. It is the most tender, most flavourful, most amazing lamb you will ever have in your life. I actually first had it at a Greek taverna in Newtown in Sydney, Australia. I was flabbergasted — was this what lamb was all about? And here I’d just had lamb chops all my life (which are good, but they pale in comparison). Kleftiki lamb is the gold standard and I recommend it to everyone, even if you don’t typically like lamb.

I got my meal really quickly, which I was surprised about and it did make me wonder if they were hoping to hurry me along a little. My plan was to stay for sunset, though, and I did. Greece, like most European countries, isn’t somewhere that they rush you along so they can flip your table. The culture is to sit, enjoy, and linger. I figure now that they were just really quick to have my meal out because it was easily prepared. Still, I savoured, watched sunset, and eventually left, heading back to Karterados via the bus because I didn’t feel like walking at night.

When I arrived back in Karterados, I showered and got ready for bed, and eventually fell asleep. So ended another day on Santorini!

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